Spanish cities: Girona

Our Favorite Cities - Girona
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Gerona (Girona in Catalan). Between the multiple delights of Barcelona and the French border, most travelers in Spain whiz right by this lovely city. That isn’t to say Girona is totally undiscovered, but it is not on most people’s mental list of Things to See in Spain – if anything, it is a footnote to Barcelona, the Costa Brava beaches, or the Dalí Theater-Museum just north in the town of Figueres. That’s OK. Some places are better somewhat undiscovered, and Girona is one. Wander the twisting alleys of the medieval Jewish quarter without finding huge tour groups on every corner. Check out the Jewish History museum or the Cinema museum. Don’t miss the medieval "Arab baths" (not really "Arab") and at least peek in the Cathedral – the nave is immensely wide. In the Cathedral museum, the "Creation" tapestry and an illuminated manuscript from th 10^th century are considered two of Girona’s treasures.
If you have time or inclination, the archeology museum, in the 12^th century San Pere de Galligants monastery is well worth a visit. A little exploring should lead you to the gardens right behind the Cathedral apse, where you can see the Cathedral from an unusual angle, showing elements from different construction periods – note how later building surrounded the original tower. From these gardens you can access the Wall Walk, along the top of the original city walls. This is fun for a while, but the views are best right behind the Cathedral then around the corner to the end of the gardens, after that not quite as interesting and accesses far between – continuing beyond this can be overwhelming mentally as well as physically, as the walk is not very wide and the drop is considerable, not good for people who are sensitive to heights (in the gardens, drop is less and trees help break up the space visually so you don’t notice this as much). Top all this off with a stroll and some window shopping on the pedestrian streets right by the river. You should cross one of the pedestrian bridges to see the houses that back on the river, reflected in the water if the light is right. Some people watching from a café on these streets is a fine place to slake your thirst and rest your feet – for Girona you need your very best walking shoes!
	The new part of town on the other side of the river has a geometrical layout that is a complete contrast to the labyrinthic medieval quarter. If you arrive by train or bus you will cross this part to reach the old quarter. My personal opinion is that the new part is less interesting than the old, but if you need a break from narrow, stone-paved streets, or if you need to do some supermarket shopping, this is where you need to be. Yes, if you are tight on time you can "do" Girona in a day trip from Barcelona, Figueres or the coast. You can even "do" Girona and Figueres in one day, if you are willing to hustle and miss some of the atmosphere. But if you can arrange it, stay overnight (maybe afternoon of one day and morning of next?), if only for the pleasure of walking around the old quarter under the streetlamps, when wisps of former residents may peer from windows or around corners.
How to go: Girona is on the main train line from Barcelona north to the French border. This train runs about every 90 minutes in both directions and often more frequently. Girona to Barcelona is about 60 – 75 minutes trip. Girona is also a stop on overnight "Estrella" train from Madrid through Barcelona and continuing up to French border. If you take night trains in Spain, I strongly recommend getting a bunk (litera), in a six-person cabin (sitting up all night is only for masochists and luxury cabins very expensive). Traveling in a bunk on this night train is a great way to maximize time and even save some money – it is a little more expensive than day trains or sitting up, but you can usually sleep at least part of the night and don’t pay hotel. Girona is also a bus hub for coastal towns, towns inland and some international lines. Bus station is sensibly located right downstairs from train station. Tourist office on the pedestrian street by the river and sometimes in train station (during the summer, check there upon arrival).
What else: The whole province (similar to USA state) is a delight, including coast, countryside and mountains. It's one of our favorite destinations for walking trips! Click for CULTURAL TIPS SPAIN other city page: TOLEDO
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