Christmas in and near Madrid

Nativity scenes   As most people know, instead of a Christmas tree, the Nativity scene or "Belén" is the traditional Christmas decoration in Spain. These range from small, basic setups for the home to huge elaborate scenes in churches, museums or city halls. In addition to the main figures (the Holy Family, three wise men, shepherds, sheep, cows and a donkey) there are some traditional elements that most larger Spanish Nativity scenes will include: the stable (usually made of slabs of cork), a stream (often made of aluminum foil or blue cellophane), a bridge over that stream, a water mill or windmill, a castle on a hill (hill covered with moss) and the inn. The big scenes are crowded with a village full of people, often including a blacksmith, shopkeepers and a woman selling roast chestnuts among others - and in Catalunya an odd personage that I'm embarassed to describe -ask about their special tradition if you're in that region around Christmas then look for it elsewhere as this odd custom appears to be spreading.

Scroll down for Christmas markets, craft fairs and more

Here are some of the traditional Nativity scenes in Madrid, now updated for 2010-2011.

Madrid City Hall Nativity:  One of the biggest in Madrid, usually has around 800 figures. This year it’s back in Cibeles, in courtyard behind the ornate old post office (now city hall). Enter from calle Alcalá 50. Often has long lines, try to go at off-times. Visit until Jan 6, 10am -  9pm. Dec 22+24+31, Jan 1: 10am - 4pm.  Dec 13+16 10am - 7pm.

Madrid Comunidad Nativity:  Not the same as above, this is Madrid "province" instead of "city". Right next to Plaza Puerta de Sol, entrance from calle Corres along west side of big official building with clock (right side as you look at building). Often has long lines, try to go at off-times. Visit until Jan 7, 10am -  9pm. Dec 22+24+31,Jan 1 may have different schedules.

Army Headquarters Nativity: Yes, you read right. Outdoor nativity, lit up at least part of the evening-night and with a lit-up sign saying "Paz en la Tierra" (Peace on Earth). Where: On calle Alcala, corner Recoletos, diagonally across Cibeles square from the City Hall Nativity described above. Building is set far back in nice garden surrounded by a metal fence.  Nativity is in the garden, almost directly in front of Banco de España metro exit.

Casa del Reloj: Paseo de la Chopera 6 and 10, Metro Legazpi. Usually shows more than one Nativity scene, fun to compare if you don't have a lot of time. Visit until Jan 8, Mon-Sat 10am-2pm + 5-9pm, Sun 10am - 2pm  Closed Dec 25, Jan 1,6.

Almudena Cathedral: Next to the Royal Palace on Plaza del Oriente / calle Bailen, Metro Opera, Plaza de España. 19th century Nativity figures from Girona. Visits Dec 25 - Jan 23, 9am - 8pm.

Royal Palace:  Visits Dec 18-Jan 9, Mon-Sat 9.30am - 5pm, Suns + hotls, 9am - 2pm. Closed Dec 24,25,31, Jan 1+6 and days when official ceremonies take place.

Decorative Arts Museum: calle Montalban 12, Metro Banco de España. 18th century Neopolitan Nativity. Entrance fee. Visits: Tues-Sat 9-30am - 3pm, Sun + hol 10am - 3pm, Mon + Dec 24,25,31 + Jan 1 closed.

City Museum: calle Principe de Vergara 140, Metro Cruz de Rayo. Visits: Dec 8 - Jan 8. Tues-Fri 9-30am - 8pm. Sat, Sun, hol + Dec 24 + 31 10am - 2pm. Mon Dec 25 +  Jan 1 closed.

San Rafael Hospital: Corner of streets Concha Espina and Serrano, Entrance to view Nativity from side street Herreros de Tejada 3 (perpendicular to Serrano). One of Madrid's most traditional Nativity scenes. Visit until Jan 12, 11am-1.30pm + 4.30-8pm.

Twelve Apostles parish church: Velazquez 88. Llight and sound show. Visit Dec 21-Jan 7, noon-2.30pm + 6-9pm.

San Francisco el Grande Basilica. Traditional nativity scene. This is a good chance to see this church, usually closed. Dec 21 - Jan 9. Tues - Fri 8am - 12.30pm + 4-6pm, Sat 8am - 12.30pm + 4-8.30, Sun +hol 8am - 2pm 7.30-8.30pm,  Mon closed.

Other Nativities:  Descalzas Reales and Encarnacion convents, many churches have something, even the smaller neighborhood parishes. You should also look for Nativity scenes in windows of shops, bars and cafés - often using the products sold (in a bucket, adorned with a glass of wine and cookies, etc); these are often quite elaborate in the stores specialized in religious products in central Madrid (around Sol-Plaza Mayor).

Outside the city:  Lots of towns have Nativity scenes, but the two "should-sees" are:

San Lorenzo de El Escorial: Usually from around Dec. 20 to  Jan. 6. Life-size but not live, figures and animals in the historic center of this village (near the Monastery). Best to go early, as the figures prettiest when first set up. Easy transportation by bus and train.

Buitrago de Lozoya: "Living Nativity" on dates Dec. 18, 19, 25, 26, 2010 at 6.30 PM.  Doesn't take place if weather is bad. Free of charge, but entrance limited to 2500 people. If there are a lot of people who are unable to see the first show, the organization sometimes arranges a second show at 8PM. More than two hundred actors participate in this yearly event. Website: www.belenvivientebuitrago.es/html/index.htm

Click HERE to go to CULTURAL TIPS SPAIN

Christmas markets, craft fairs  (scroll down for more Christmasy things)

-- Plaza Mayor: booths with things for your Nativity scene and other Christmas decorations, as well as some joke items like reindeer antlers and blinking necklaces. Christmas trees, moss for your Nativity scene also available. Can get VERY crowded - don't go on the evening that school get out for vacation, as the square is on the circuit for highschool and university students celebrating their freedom. Follow the horse's nose east out of the square for a few more booths on Plaza Santa Cruz  

-- Madrid handcrafts fair, The Biggest, the Best of Madrid's crafts fair, this is a should-do for everyone. Something for every person and every budget: ceramics, weaving, toys, jewelry, wood, leather goods and more. While shopping for gifts, why not treat yourself, too?  Plaza de España, December 17 -January 5. 

-- Other fairs: In 2010: Smaller fairs, less "crafts" and more trinkets, though still lots of nice things: As of Dec 8 set up in Plazas Jacinto Benavente, Carmen, Chueca and Santo Domingo and on Bravo Murillo a little above the gas station on the corner of Lopez de Haro (metro Estrecho). Other places that traditionally have markets but do not as of today: Plazas Carros - San Andres (adjoining squares near metro Latina), Plazas Descalzas Reales, Santa Ana, and near Moncloa metro (along Princea and Isaac Peral) - those places might have markets in 10 days or so. Other traditional locations (haven't checked yet): calle Montera near corner Gran Via, in the Atocha train station, on Paseo de los Coches in the Retiro park. If you're in any of these areas you might want to drop by to investigate.

Other Christmas things

-Your energy lights up Christmas! Nokia telephone company has an idea for you: come dance or pedal an exercise bike - and your energy will help light up a big Christmas tree, made of recycled materials. The dance floor and the bikes turn muscle energy into electicity to light the tree. Dance floor is with headphones to keep noise down. It looks fun and eco - cool.  Where and when: Plaza Santa Ana (so you can burn off the tapas), until December 30, 3pm - midnight.

--Skating!! Skating for kids on not-really-ice in Plaza Callao, possibly also nearby in Plaza Santa Maria Soledad Acosta. Traditionally there's a real ice rink for all ages (with skate rental) in the Retiro on Paseo de los Coches, but given budget cuts this might have disappeared (will check soon!).

TWO Circus!!    Circo Teresa Rabal   is set up right next to Cuatro Caminos, has shows through January (www.circoteresarabal.com)  and   Circo Price  is in their permanent location, an old cookie factory near Atocha (www.teatrocircoprice.es) Neither website appears to have English, so sit down with a fluent friend to learn schedules and how to buy tickets. Note: neither of these is very animal intensive, more clowns and acrobats. 

-Christmas lights, Christmas trees: You can count on bright lights in Sol and the surrounding commercial streets up to and including the Plaza Mayor, also some in the Santa Ana area. Gran Via is always spangly with lights, usually extending down to calle Alcala, along calle Alcala and around Cibeles square. The posh Salamanca neighborhood lights Goya, Serrano, Recoletos and often other commercial streets like Jorge Juan and Ortega y Gasset. The "Boulevards" from Colon to Arguelles usually have twinkly lights in the trees, and trendy Chueca always has something fun. In recent years, this lighting has gone Designer, so some of the themes may not be traditionally Christmas-y. Madrid's Christmas trees have also gone designer, and at the same time eco-cool: immense lighted cones instead of living trees - some nice, some odd, some over-the-top. In 2010 apparently the only tree is Agatha Ruiz de la Prada's tree in Sol, but in the past they've been in Atocha, Paseo del Prado, Plaza de España, Cuatro Caminos and a few other places.

-- Exhibit at a major department store in Sol. Go around the back of the main store (you know the one we mean!) to Plaza Celenque - calle Maestro Victoria to see the animated display on the back of the store. Shows off and on all day. Some years these are astonishingly good, other years not so much. Sometimes something on the Goya store.  Again, even if you don't have kids.... the jingle will stay with you for days, but you have to see this at least once.

-- New Year's Eve in Sol! Going to Spain's equivalent of Times Square for the New Year is NOT for the faint-hearted!! This is the official place to watch the descent of the golden ball that ushers in the New Year (clock on Comunidad de Madrid building on south side of square), BUT it is usually a mob scene. Someone inevitably ends up in the fountains, too. All that said, if you like a good party, go for it! Everyone who lives in Spain for a while should go at least once. Hint: Take your own supplies (including your twelve grapes, some bubbly and plastic glasses - no bottles allowed) and make a pit-stop before going.

-- Kings' Day Parade, January 5th. The three kings come to town with a huge parade. The parade starts on the Castellana by Nuevos Ministerios (corner San Juan de la Cruz) and goes south to Cibeles (tradional route through Sol and to the Plaza Mayor no longer, alas). This is fun for grownups as well as kids - though you won't see much unless you take a folding ladder (think I'm joking? tell me afterwards!). Again, you have to do this once even if you don't have kids. If this isn't the year to do it, do NOT plan to move anywhere around the central part of the city this day - forget the car and bus, even the Metro is packed. Some neighborhoods have their own processions.

Click   HERE   to go to CULTURAL TIPS SPAIN

Go to Home Page for    Puente,    your Bridge to Spain