Snow in Madrid
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SNOW IN MADRID!!! What are your feelings on white stuff from the sky? Do you love it, hate it, wish for a lot or a little but without scraping your car windows or shovelling the walk?
No matter what you feel, if you’re from a colder place, you probably wish for some snow at some time during the winter. Here are some ideas to help you cure your cravings, about an hour from Madrid, with a little extra info on cross-country skiing as the “newcomer” to winter sports in Madrid. See below for “how-to” information for places mentioned here.
Downhill skiers: From what I hear, serious downhillers go elsewhere. The slopes in Madrid are not long and usually quite crowded, unless you can get away during the week. Lift lines are long, so you may wait longer than the actual descent - all this supposing there is really enough snow to ski! But even taking all this into account, if you need a ski-fix, you can get up to Madrid's mountains in a fraction of the time it would take you to reach "better" slopes in Sierra Nevada (near Granada) or Pyrenees (nearest reliable snow in Candanchu, Aragonese Pyrenees).
Ski stations nearest Madrid: Navacerrada station in the pass and Valdesquí station near Cotos pass. There are more runs and the snow is usually better in Valdesquí, though that depends on how the storms come through. La Pinilla station north of the mountains (near Riaza) is a little farther away, often with better snow though it can be icy.
Cross-country skiers: As of 2009, there are three marked tracks in Madrid. One is a challenging track in Navacerrada pass, near Escaparate downhill run and the walking trail Camino Schmidt, though the x-c ski track is NOT the Camino Schmidt. This track is almost all in the forest, narrow and not very long, but don't let that discourage you: it’s not for beginners, but if snow conditions are good, this track is a blast.
Another track is in Cotos pass, in a pasture to the left of the highway, access near lower edge of parking lot. This track is easier and quite pretty, mostly pasture with a loop through the forest, though again, it isn’t very long. Cotos has "classic" style skis for rent at 15 euros / day (no "skating" skis). In 2009, no track fee for either; the first is classic technique only and the second classic and skating techniques.
As of 2008 there's a new cross country ski area in Navafria pass (near Lozoya). While this ski area is the "newcomer" its location is dear to the heart of anyone who has skied cross-county in Madrid. They're still ironing out some minor problems, but this is a place to keep in mind. Charges a track fee, has classes and ski rental. OFTEN VERY DIFFICULT TO PARK IN THIS PASS Website: www.navafriaesqui.com
Experienced cross-country skiiers, walkers: For walking or skiing (if you don’t mind making your own ski tracks), there are lots of forest roads that often have snow. Try the roads starting in Canencia pass above Miraflores de la Sierra, Malagón pass near El Escorial or los Leones pass on the Coruña highway. If the snow is a little higher, you can often ski from Morcuera pass above Miraflores de la Sierra, though wind sometimes sweeps the snow from the wide pastures at this pass. If you are lucky enough to catch a heavy, low snowfall, head for the Lozoya valley and ski up from the "La Isla" recreational area between Rascafria and Cotos pass. Walkers note: Please do not walk on cross-country ski tracks. It makes walking easier but your bootholes make skiing very difficult.
Sledders, snowballers: If you just want some fresh air and a few snowballs, your best place to go is Cotos pass. It’s fairly high, has a sizeable parking lot, good public transportation and some infrastructure (huge “bocadillos” and fantastic broth in Venta Marcelino!), but is less crowded than Navacerrada as there is no downhill skiing. Cotos has a big pasture that used to be the baby ski slope and is now a good place for sledding, and another pasture to the left on the way to Valdesquí station. The next best place is Navacerrada pass, with more infrastructure and similiar public transportation as Cotos, but less open space and more people because of the downhill ski station. If you have a car and don’t need a coffee or a hot meal next to your winter playground, head for Morcuera and Canencia passes: no infrastructure, no public transportation, but quite near Madrid. Sledders and snowballers note: no playing is allowed on downhill or cross-country ski runs.
EQUIPMENT RENTAL: Downhill equipment at Navacerrada, Valdesquí, La Pinilla. Cross-country equipment at Cotos, Navafria and at Madrid store Esquí Fuera de Pista on calle Calvo Ascensio (Arguelles), rental process more complicated at the store. Sleds, maybe boots / snowshoes at Navacerrada and Cotos.
Useful websites: Train schedules: www.renfe.es // Bus schedules in Madrid province www.ctm-madrid.es // Spanish weather, forecast snowfall altitude: www.inm.es // Good Madrid store for walking maps: www.tiendaverde.org For webcam in Cotos pass, go to www.sierranorte.com then click on "La Sierra en Directo" then "Puerto de Cotos" - this will give you a pretty good idea of how much snow is on the ground in the pass, whether parking lot is cleared, weather. // Ski stations: www.valdesqui.es www.lapinilla.es www.puertonavacerrada.es
GETTING THERE: Navacerrada / Cotos passes, Valdesquí station: By car: take the Coruña highway from Madrid, turning off after Villalba following signs to Nacerrada pass. For Valdesquí station, take the highway to the right at the top of Navacerrada pass, marked Cotos and Rascafria, then turn right in Cotos pass. Public transportation: by train, changing to smaller train in Cercedilla for Navacerrada and Cotos, must walk from Cotos to Valdesquí. NOTE: If going by train, you must decide on return time when you get on the mountain train in Cercedilla; you’ll get a ticket for the time you choose (this is to avoid overloading this small train). By bus, Sepulvedana line from Moncloa underground bus station, stops in Villalba and some other towns. La Pinilla ski station: Take the Burgos highway to just beyond the Somosierra pass, then turn off to Riaza near Cerezo de Abajo and finally turn off to La Pinilla from this second highway (watch for sign). No public transportation directly to ski station. Canencia / Miraflores passes: Take Colmenar highway north to after Colmenar Viejo, then take highway marked for Manzanares el Real, Soto el Real and Miraflores de la Sierra. In Miraflores the highway makes a sharp curve to the left: after that straight ahead will take you to Morcuera pass and turning right goes to Canencia pass, both highways are signed. No public transportation to these passes.
HINTS FOR A SAFE, FUN AND HASSLE-FREE DAY: Whenever you leave Madrid in the winter but especially if there is snow, take a snow shovel, chains for your tires, a full tank of gas, cell phone and a basic emergency kit. Though practically in Madrid's backyard, our mountains are real and you do not want to get stuck up there.
Dress warmly!! Take a hat, gloves or mittens (preferably two pairs) and an extra pair of socks. Wear the right kind of footwear for what you will be doing. For some ideas on layering to stay warm, click HERE. Yes mom, ok mom, sure mom, whatever you say mom? Believe me, you'll have a lot more fun if you aren't wet and cold!! And while you're at it, remember suncream and sunglasses - a sunny day in the snow can fry your nose and reflected glare can give a nasty headache.
Go early or late: if you’re not at most of these snowy places by 9.30 AM on weekends you may not have a place to park, even in places with fairly large parking lots. Depending on where you go, it may work to go around 2.30-3.00PM, when many early birds are heading back to the city - it’s warmer, the snow is less icy (though sometimes mushy) and you may have better luck getting a parking place. This is a good tactic if you’re going with small children, who wouldn’t last all day in the snow anyway. Do remember that it gets dark early and roads may have some ice when temperatures drop. Do NOT park partly on the highway, as the traffic police (Guardia Civil) patrols all the passes and may fine you if your wheels are over the white line, even if there is no cleared space to park – so go early or use your shovel to clear a spot.
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